From March 20 through 24, 2018, koll exhibited its new A/W 2018 collection at Shibuya TOC Building. Choosing “incompatible” as a theme for this season, the designer Mayu Kusuhara’s eye is on lack of harmony, or clash of colors of natural and artificial objects.
This season marks the brand’s first collection after it was renamed from DOKOKA KITANO-HOU to koll. While DOKOKA KITANO-HOU was the emotional reflection of natural landscape that women embrace, koll seems to be a more direct expression of modern women. Through dialogue with the designer about renaming, I interpreted the scenery as follows:
It’s somewhere between chaotic urban life and tranquility in nature, or emotionally, between inner strength and unbearable longing. It is not just strong or weak. Women wavering in between are sometimes solid but fragile.
“I suggest strong clothes just because women are emotionally brittle,” commented Kusuhara.
This season’s collection is characterized by extensive use of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which is now in vogue. The transparent material gives futuristic vibes and also accentuates natural materials. Unlike the last season’s clothing bringing together natural and artificial materials, this season’s collection includes items made solely of natural materials, which better fit in with everyday occasions. Items also come in a wide variety of colors, such as a jacket in vivid yellow with foil print. The brand’s new collection would please not only women but Harajuku-style young men in eye-catching clothes.
Brand: koll
